The Journey Genie

More than any other country, people write about traveling or moving to France.

Perhaps it's because people equate romance with Paris, so surely moving there - or anywhere in France - must also be romantic and adventurous!

In any case, here is my reading list for this "belle terre."

 

- The Sweet Life in Paris, by David Lebovitz.

- https://www.amazon.ca/Town-Like-Paris-Falling-Light/dp/0767928172" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">A Town Like Paris, by Bryce Corbett

- https://www.amazon.com/Karen-Wheeler/e/B0034NYT52" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Toute Sweet & Toute Allure, by Karen Wheeler

- https://www.amazon.com/Almost-French-Love-Life-Paris/dp/1592400825" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Almost French, by Sarah Turnbull

- https://www.amazon.ca/Lunch-Paris-Love-Story-Recipes/dp/0316042781" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Lunch in Paris by Elizabeth Bard

- https://www.amazon.com/French-Heart-American-Familys-Adventures/dp/076792522X" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">French by Heart, by Rebecca S. Ramsey

- https://www.amazon.ca/Year-Provence-Peter-Mayle/dp/0679731148" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">A Year in Provence, and other titles by Peter Mayle

- https://www.amazon.ca/Cest-Vie-American-Voila-Becomes/dp/0143035509" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">C'est La Vie, by Suzy Gershman

- https://www.amazon.ca/Year-Merde-Stephen-Clarke/dp/1582346178" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">A Year in the Merde, and other titles by Stephen Clarke

- Pancakes in Paris, by Craig Carlson

As iconic as the Eiffel Tower is, the view from afar is better. Take the Metro (Line 12 Abbesses or Lamarck Caulaincourt, or Line 2 Anvers), then the funnicular up to Sacre Coeur. There are lots of interesting, kitschy tourist stores around https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montmartre" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Montmartre, and https://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71470/Cimetiere-du-Pere-Lachaise" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Pere Lachaise Cemetery is just a bit further along the #2 Metro line.

- There is a ceremony at 6:30 p.m. daily at the Arc de Triomphe's Tomb of the Unknown Solider, to honour France's war dead. It is a moving ceremony to witness.

- The https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latin_Quarter,_Paris" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Latin Quarter is a bustling, colourful and fun place to sightsee, people watch, shop and eat. Notre Dame and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Île_Saint-Louis" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Ile St. Louis are close by, too.

- The https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galeries_Lafayette" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Galleries Lafayette is a magnificent department store on the grand scale only Paris can offer. Its huge glassed dome overlooks ten stories of shopping heaven!

- Of course it goes without saying that the Louvre is worth a visit....or several, to see all of its priceless exhibits. To save time, definitely purchase tickets ahead of time so you can skip past the folks standing in line and get inside! NOTE: do not put your camera or other belongings down while in the museum; thieves are rampant, and often dressed better than the tourists, so you'd never suspect them.

 

NEARBY:

- Versailles - take the train, and be prepared for a lot of walking and a sublime experience. This is, after all, one of the main reasons for the https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Revolution" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">French Revolution...luxury and privilege at its most opulent!

- Giverny: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claude_Monet" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Monet's eponymous garden, is not far from Paris, and makes another excellent day trip. I didn't think I'd enjoy Giverny, not being much of a gardener, but my love of macro photography went into overdrive once I was inside. It's a lovely place to spend a couple of hours wandering around, viewing Monet's masterpieces as he first envisioned them. There are several nice, small, family-run cafes nearby to enjoy a bite to eat and further extend the ambiance.

 

FURTHER AFIELD:

- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normandy" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Normandy really is its own destination, but I'll squeeze it in here! If you find the history of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_War_II" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">World War II at all interesting, this is the place for you. In addition, it's a gorgeous destination all its own...historic seaside towns that before the war were family holiday spots, and have reclaimed that distinction once again. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calvados" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Calvados, a potent and delicious apple brandy named for the area in which it is produced, is worth a try. Aged bottles are not too expensive to sample!

Stay in https://www.bayeux.fr/en" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Bayeux and use it as the jumping-off point to all Normandy has to offer. I like the newish and well-run Ibis Budget hotel just outside of town, although it is not walking distance to the sights. Bayeux Cathedral is a magnificent, imposing presence. The area around it hosts a yearly Medieval festival where folks dress up in period costume and showcase food, arts and crafts, and entertainment from that era. The Bayeux Tapestry is also worth a visit. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is over 70 metres of embroidered history, telling the story of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_the_Conqueror" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">William the Conquerer's escapades.

Bretteville-sur-Laize Canadian Military Cemetery and Beny sur-Mer Canadian Cemetery are also nearby, and are both smaller, more poignant stops than the imposing American Cemetery. British and German Military Cemeteries are also nearby. Other D-Day related sights include:

- Centre Juno Beach, the only Canadian museum on the Normandy beaches.

- Arromanches 360, a theatre-in-the-round with an excellent show that alternates between present-day images of the area, and historic D-Day images.

- https://www.abmc.gov/cemeteries-memorials/europe/pointe-du-hoc-ranger-monument#.WXgFiK2ZNE4" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Pointe du Hoc, where the American Rangers came ashore under unthinkably difficult circumstances - and had to scale a cliff to reach their objective.

- "Bloody" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omaha_Beach" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Omaha Beach

- Longues sur-Mer gun battery.

Other day trips include:

- Honfleur, a lovely fishing village from which https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samuel_de_Champlain" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Samuel de Champlain launched the expedition that would eventually result in the "discovery" of Quebec City.

- Mont St. Michel, an unforgettably amazing castle / island fortification. Tides as high as 14 metres isolate it by creating a natural moat.

Like my search for the perfect suitcase, I have also gone through many a purse that **seemed** like a good idea at the time, but didn't live up to expectations once we got out on the road together.  Then I happened upon a link on another traveler's website, and I purchased a Travelon Anti-Theft Signature Slim Pouch - search over!

My requirements in a purse were:

1) Lightweight but sturdy

2) As many anti-theft features as possible

3) Decent looking

4) Enough pockets to hold my stuff, but not so many that I'd lose track of where I put things (it happens!)

The great thing about the Travelon Pouch is that it actually lived up to all these expectations, and at $40 US, it's a true (ahem) steal!  The purse boasts a large main pocket (it comfortably fits my iPad mini, along with wallet and passport) with RFID blocking card slots and passport pocket.  It can be secured with a carabiner for extra security, and the zipper undoes only part-way, so no one can grab it and force it open wider.  The top slash pocket is perfect for maps or other items you need to access quickly and the front flap pocket is handy for things that don't need to be zipped away.  The back zippered pocket is handy for bus tickets, etc. that you want to be secure but easy to access. 

Inside the main pocket is a little removable LED light on a keychain, so you can either see inside the purse in dark places, or remove it to see the lock to your door, etc.  The cut-proof strap can be undone and secured to a table or chair, and is extendable to any comfortable length (I prefer it to be shorter and closer under my arm when I'm in crowded places).  Best of all, the purse is lightweight and easy to wear even when it's hot out.  The fabric cleans up in a snap and works with casual or semi-formal outfits.  There are many other styles and colours to choose from as well.  I bought the "truffle" colour, because for summer travel it was less heavy-looking than black.  My mother got one in "eggplant," which is also a good colour that's not too heavy.

Although this is the only Travelon bag I own, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one or recommend this company.  I'm super happy with my purse and I can't wait to take it on my next adventure!

In the ten+ years that I've been traveling, I've gone through many a suitcase - not necessarily because they wore out, but because they were too big, too small, too heavy, too cumbersome to roll, etc.  Finally, after much consideration, last year I bought a bright pink IT World's Lightest suitcase and I have to say, so far I'm thrilled with it.  This summer will be our third trip together and it looks like a lasting partnership.

Now, bright pink would NOT usually be my first choice, but let me tell you, it's easy to spot when it comes off the conveyer belt in airports.  This in itself is a bonus, since it can be difficult to find *your* precious suitcase amongst the sea of black and grey.

Besides the colour, however, some additional selling points of this suitcase for me are:

* it truly is as light as a feather: the 22 inch suitcase is only 1.8 lbs when empty

* the multi-directional rolling wheels make it easier to manouver through crowds (I would never to back to single direction wheels)

* the internal frame is lightweight and takes up very little space; this might be an issue after several more flights, or if it encounters a particularly rough ride with baggage handlers, but so far the extra space means more room to bring home souvenirs!

* the wider handle is both a blessing and a curse; it's a blessing since it's easier to grip (foam rubber padding is also user-friendly), but it's a curse since most conventional carry on bags do not have a "piggyback" sleeve that is meant to fit over such a wide handle - in fact, I have yet to find one, and even IT Luggage's own brand of carry on bag doesn't work well with this suitcase

* for a non-exandable case, it does hold a lot since the soft shell stretches to fit whatever is inside; this can make the bag front heavy and somewhat tippy, but I haven't found that it's a big deal

One downside I discovered before I bought my bag: IT's "guarantee" is not really a guarantee at all, since IT disavows itself of liability if the airline causes the damage.  Since I don't plan on jumping up and down on it, the only way the bag could get damaged is via airline mishandling, so it's kind of a moot point.  Oh well - I found my bag at a TJ Maxx store, where it was only $40.  For that price, even if the thing only lasts for two or three years, it will have been worth it in saved money on chiropractic visits alone!  In short, though I was leery about the strength and durability of this bag, I would recommend it if you want to travel light.

I meant to write "on the go" during my trip to the Czech Republic this past August, but it didn't turn out to be that easy.  Although there was no shortage of spare time, using an iPad mini without a keyboard was not really conducive to writing a daily blog.  So, much after the fact, here is the skinny on my two weeks spent at a health spa in Marianske Lazne, Czech Republic.

The spa we chose, Danubius Spa Hotel Butterfly, bills itself as a four star health spa/hotel.  The package we bought was sort of an all-inclusive deal, as it covered our twin room, all meals, an initial doctor's consultatation, and all spa treatments recommended by the doctor.  Our first impression of the hotel was a good one; it is located on the pretty main street in Marianske Lazne (German version = Marienbad), walking distance from virtually everything one needs during a stay there.  The hotel's reception area is bright and clean, with a large central seating area and a lounge/bar area right off to the side.  There is also a dedicated outdoor partially covered seating area with tables, chairs, and polar fleece blankets you can borrow when it gets chilly.  The check-in process was quick and easy, though no porter service was offered to us to assist with our luggage.

Upstairs on the fourth floor, our twin room faced over the side of the hotel, where we could hear some street noise.  However, since they roll up the sidewalks in Marianske Lazne in the early evening, street noise consisted of the occasional car zipping by, people on their way home from dinner, or even the odd horsedrawn carriage!  The room itself was fine, containing twin beds, two chairs with a low table between them, a desk area with a television and bar fridge behind a cupboard, and a wardrobe area for clothes.  The bathroom was clean and well-equipped, although the first bath towel I used was not the cleanest, and I asked for it to be replaced.  Notably, there was no coffee/tea making equipment in the room.  I assume this is because they want you to go downstairs to the bar/lounge area when you want a drink, and spend your money there.  Well, after a couple of days of spare time and no coffee or tea on demand in our room, we quickly purchased our own kettle, disposable cups, and teabags!

Meals, as mentioned, were all included in the price.  Breakfast was a huge affair, with every possible item one could want for the first meal of the day.  I mean, there was everything from cereal and yoghurt, to savory items that Europeans prefer, such as deli meats and cheeses, pickles, pates, etc.  There was also hot food like bacon (too fatty), sausage, eggs, porridge, etc.  The coffee was delicious as well.  Lunch and dinner menus went up shortly before each meal, with typically three to four choices.  Unfortunately, traditional Czech food isn't our favourite...schnitzels with only lemon and fried potatoes, fish with the head and bones intact, and veggies boiled beyond recognition are not exactly delicacies.  Occasionally, from four things to choose from, there was only one "obvious" one.

The biggest issue beyond food was that not much English was spoken by the hotel staff, and even less by the spa staff.  Of course, we are visitors in their country, so we had to work around that, but at times it was difficult to make ourselves understood.  We can usually pick  up enough of the local language for manners, pleasantries, ordering, etc., but Czech isn't so easy.  Marianske Lazne is all about German tourists, so at times we fell back on our extremely limited German.

The main reason for our visit, though, was not the hotel or even Marianske Lazne, lovely though the town is.  The first morning we were there, we had our initial doctor's consultation, and the minute I set eyes on the doctor, I knew it was not going to be what we had hoped for.  He was an older, clearly retired gentleman who had raging psoriasis on his elbows.  Before you think these comments are pejorative, keep in mind that this is a health spa which touts itself as a natural alternative to healing and wellness.  Physician, health thyself?  The doctor's English was so limited that he didn't understand my main concern, Fibromyalgia, and even when I wrote it down so he could read it, he was quite dismissive.  So much for advertising Fibromyalgia help on their website.  After an extremely cursive check-up, the doctor prescribed a routine of spa treatments, which he fed into a computer that spat out a daily plan for our next two weeks there.

We took part in everything from back/shoulder massages, to peat wraps, to spa mineral baths, to dry CO2 "baths," which is really just lying waist deep in a bag that is cinched on and CO2 gas is pumped inside.  It's supposed to increase circulation, but this is a pretty intangible benefit to judge.  While most of the treatments were relaxing and enjoyable, I can't honestly say that I felt any better upon leaving than I had when I first arrived.  Although I wasn't expecting to be *cured* of Fibromyalgia, I was definitely hopeful that the spa could offer me some treatments I couldn't find at home.  We spent alot of money to get there, and alot more to stay for two weeks, which we were told was the minimum amount of time to spend in order to feel benefits.  I'm glad we didn't stay any longer, because after walking down the main street to peruse the little tourist stores and to the two grocery stores and one clothing store nearby about a hundred times, I can honestly say I was bored.  I had long since read the two books I brought with me, and was very thankful for my iPad, where I could download English magazines and cruise the internet.  I'm an intrepid traveler, and perhaps I just don't do relaxation very well, but two weeks was more than enough for me. 

The verdict?  If you want to travel to a place where not many North Americans go, if you like beautiful outdoor scenery dotted with historic buildings and lots of gentle walking, if you need to chill out and relax and don't want to leave your hotel if you don't feel like it, then this is your place.  If you're looking for a grand health/curative experience, perhaps do a little more research into what's available in Marianske Lazne or other spa towns like it.  For us, that experience proved to be elusive.

After a lot of trial and error, finally I got somewhere today, and managed to publish the very beginnings of a bouncing baby website, "The Journey Genie."  Here's hoping that it attracts many fans, and starts to be self-sufficient!